This nail tutorial has been kindly submitted by one
of our nail techs.This is to demonstate how to do full sculpting gels
using Gentle Gels by Nails Plus or your favorite
builder gel she has also provided some fantastic 'before
and after' pictures to show what can be achieved by a good nail technician
with a little effort. The pictures in this tutorial are thumbnails to
help speed up page loading, click on each of the pictures to see the
full size image.
Finished Nails Pic 1
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Before.
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Step 1. My first step is
to prepare the nails by pushing back the cuticles using a stainless
steel pusher/scraper,and then removing secondary skin from the
nail plate. Next I spray the surface of all 10 nails with Nail
Prep, let dry and then use Affixit, non-acid primer. Let dry for
1 minute.
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Step 4. Carefully apply your
builder Clear (or Pink) Gel to all 10 nails using a #6 synthetic
gel brush, once again, you may freeze and alternate hands until
all 10 nails are completed. Ensure that you keep your gel off
the cuticle and sidewall using tissue. Set your UV gel light to
the specified curing time. Remove forms and continue to cure for
another 30 seconds to 1 minute to ensure that the whites are fully
cured right through to the underside of the free edge. Remove
sticky surface residue using a lint free square
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Finished Nails Pic 2.
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Step 2. Apply your forms
of choice, and then apply bonding gel to all 10 nails, and cure
for 2 minutes in .a 9-watt UV light system.
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Step 5. Using a white washable 100/180
grit file, I now file the sidewalls straight, and establish
my free edge shape on all 10 nails. Next I use my KUPA3000 drill
and lightly smooth the top surface of the nail and also ensure
that the gel is FLAT to the nail around the cuticle and sidewall
areas. I use a medium sanding band on my mandrel for this. Remember
to check the nails from all angles to ensure a perfect shape.
Remove dust with a clean, dry washcloth, or you can use acetone
or 99% alcohol on a lint free square, if you prefer a wet wipe
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Finished Nails Pic 3.
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After.
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Step 3. Now, apply your
White Builder Gel to the free edge of the nail. You can create
a beautiful smile line with this white gel as the consistency
is such that .it doesn’t run, yet is self levelling and easy to
work with. I like to use a #4 gel brush shaped synthetic brush
for the application as I find it gives me great control. If desired,
you can “swipe” the smile line with your clean brush to correct
or refine the smile. Freeze for 10 seconds. If you are using 2
gels lights as I do, alternate from hand to hand so no time is
lost in the “freezing” process. Complete all 10 nails in this
manner.
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Step 6. Using your #4,#6,or
$8 gel brush, apply a medium layer of Gel Clear Top Gloss. Apply
top gloss as close to the cuticle and sidewalls as possible, without
touching. Cure for 2 – 3 minutes. Remove sticky surface with a
clean lint free square using acetone or 99% alcohol
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